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When curating a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the owners completely astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their humble shop securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary triumph.